Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at the highlights from the Fall/Winter 2023-24 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week. As the most sustainable Fashion Week in the calendar, Copenhagen once again delivered a host of inspiring conscious collections. Organic, deadstock and zero waste creations tapped into the messages resonating with contemporary audiences, exploring themes of gender-fluidity and the revival of Y2K looks beloved of Gen Z. Di(Vision) Tilted “Dressed for Disaster” Di(Vision)’s collection was a Y2K inspired disaster complete with wine stained clothing and half eaten meals strewn across guest’s tables. A DIY aesthetic played out in 90’s grunge plaid and patchwork print, continuing the label’s work of upcycling high quality…

Is the influence of the streetwear hype losing ground? Are women’s suits the future of men’s suits? Finally, is dandyism, inherited from the 19th century, becoming trendy again? These are all the questions we asked ourselves after the presentations of the autumn/winter 23/24 men’s collections. Workwear and streetwear influences are giving way. It seems that the looks of workers or residents of city neighbourhoods are no longer making the privileged world of fashion dream. The value of work has gone out the window. “With a coat retailing at 800 euros, we want to look chic, dressed up, and not think that we could find it in a streetwear wardrobe,” said…

Ahead of Paris fashion week, Balenciaga creative director Demna has let it be known the house will not seek to create buzz via controversy for its upcoming show, instead focusing on product, heritage and craftsmanship. After a series of high profile faux pas, from a campaign that featured children, props that included a Supreme Court ruling concerning child pornography, and a relationship with troubled collaborator Ye, also known as Kanye West, who’s anti-semitic remarks attracted a slew of criticism and termination of contracts, Balenciaga, while not exactly pariah status, was certainly outcast after it offered muted apologies before issuing a proper mea culpa. But like most things in fashion, it…

Milan Fashion Week’s press conference ahead of its womenswear catwalk season was mired in controversy after designer Stella Jean said she would not show after funding from Italy’s fashion chamber, Camera della Moda (CNMI), was stopped after four seasons. Ms Jean, one of the driving forces of the We Are Made in Italy (WAMI) collective, which represents a minority of Black, Indigenous and designers of colour in Italian fashion, said designers struggled to buy fabrics and produce collections after financial support was halted in September. Italy’s lack of minority representation in its fashion industry has long been glossed over, with Ms Jean, who is from Italian-Haitian descent, stating the Camera…